A wonderful and kind woman passed away this weekend, 18th Jan 2020. Ms Damiana Gutierrez, mother of Cecil Gutierrez, Giovanni, Ronald, Alva and Ivan McDonald, sister to Victor, Virgin and Guadalupe and aunt to many by blood or through love alone.
Ms. Dami is one of the vocalists on the song Uruwei – The Government, which features on the album Umalali: The Garifuna Women’s Project released by Stonetree records.
Ms. Dami loved to sing and dance and was famous for her conch fritters, and many of our guests enjoyed her delicious hudut at Warasa. Below are the lyrics to this poignant (and ever relevant) song. You can download it from the Stonetree website or stream it here.
Uruwei – The Government
Anihan uruwei ya aü lahayahayan nege lau le lisien (The Government is here, hiring out of love they say)
Nahayaruba gien bumou (I will get a job)
Nahayaruba, wanwa, luba gudemetina (I will get a job for I am poor)
Haliyoun nibadina baume, Nicho (Where shall I take you, Nicho)
Haliyoun nibadina baume, wanwa (Where shall I take you, my dear)
Haliyoun nibadina beiba wabien (Where shall I take you? You had better go home)
Haliyoun nibadina baume Isawelu (Where shall I take you, Isabel)
Haliyoun nibadina baume wanwa (Where shall I take you, my dear)
Haliyoun nibadina beiba wabien (Where shall I take you?You had better go home)
Haliyoun nibadina baume, nirau (Where shall I take you, my son)
Haliyoun nibadina baume, wanwa (Where shall I take you, my dear)
Haliyoun nibadina beiba wabien (Where shall I take you? You had better go home)
Hudut with Sere, often simply called “Hudut” is one of the most popular Garifuna dishes. “Hudut” is actually the term for the mashed green and ripe plantain, and “sere” refers to the coconut fish stew that it is served with. The hudut is sometimes served with other stews or other meats, but the coconut and fish is the most popular.
There is a similar dish called “tapado” that is popular in the Guatemelan Garifuna town of Livingston, which includes more seafood such as shrimp and shellfish.
Below is a typical Belizean recipe for hudut with sere. You can experience this delicious meal if you sign-up for one of our Half- or Whole-Day Packages and take part in a cooking lesson or simply enjoy the meal.
Hudut with Sere
Ingredients (sere)
2 medium size fish
1/2 onion (sliced)
2 plugs garlic (finely chopped)
2 tablespoons coconut oil or cooking oil
1 1/2 cups coconut milk (fresh or from powder/can)
1 1/2 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon fresh basil
5 okra
Directions (sere):
Season the cleaned fish with salt and pepper and set aside
Heat up coconut oil in a pot and sautee onions and garlic with salt and pepper for a few minutes.
Add coconut milk and water
Stir and add fish.
Allow to heat up and keep stirring the coconut milk to stop it curdling, but avoid stirring the fish and breaking it up.
Continue to stir the milk, adding the okra about 5 minutes before the fish is cooked.
Continue to cook until fish and okra are cooked and soup is thickened.
Save some of the gravy to use in the hudut (mashed plantain).
Ingredients (Hudut/mashed plantain):
4 green plantains
2 ripe plantain
8 cups water
1/2 tsp salt
1/3 cup sere
Directions (Hudut/mashed plantain):
Peel and cut plantain.
Boil green plantain until soft, remove from water, put aside
Boil ripe plantain until soft, remove from water, put aside
Let plantains cool a little
Place all plantain in a mata and beat with mata stick, adding water and sere as required to get the desired consistency
Below is a Garifuna story from Honduras first translated into Spanish, and now translated into English by Warasa Garifuna Drum School.
The Spanish translation is from ASOCIACIÓN MISIONERA GARÍFUNA. Walagante. La Ceiba Atlántida Honduras, Editora Fernando Sabio, 2000. Pág. 31 and was found in a research thesis conducted in Puerto Barrios and Livingston.
Latun Yuyu Adulu
Baby Yuyu’s Atole (Corn Drink)
Yuyu Bebe Atol
Luagu aba weyu aba lidin Yuyu
One day Yuyu went to his girlfriend’s house.
Un día Yuyu fue a casa de su novia,
Tùbiñe ladari, lubàn lebeluru
Before entering, he greeted her and then sat down.
antes de entrar, saludó y luego se sentó,
Aba labusuru furumiñe, àbati lañùrun.
He went to spy into the kitchen, and saw that they were
se Puso a espiar para la cocina, y vio que estaban
Aba laganaridun gusinarugun, Dan larigihin làsarahouña lan awasi Aban lagundaràgun; Lariñaga
roasting corn.He was happy and said to himself:
asando maíz se sintió contento y dijo:
Bulìeina dan natun pinula mal.
“I don’t remember the last time I drank atole.
¡Olvidé el tiempo que tome atole,
Range lumoun nata uguñe do.
I think I’m going to drink some today!”
creo que hoy voy a beber!
Àbati lafamurun kamà ibidiñeti ni kata mon
He pretended he did not know, and he started
Hizo como si no supiera, empezó
Aba lagumeserun aboucha yana, Mon buga
to make conversation so that the time
a sacar conversación para que el tiempo
Furese lan lidin dan. Ìtara liñati lidin dan,
passed until they called
pasara, y así paso hasta que llamaron
Darì lun laguarùn Mon Yuyu lun lañùrun
Yuyu to go to the dining room
a Yuyu para que se fuera al comedor
Luagu dàbula. Àbati tichugùn luniñe Mon,
to drink a plate of atole that they had served.
a beber un plato de atol, se lo sirvieron.
Aba lagumeserun tuagu, gama lumoun Magurabahati tadilirun lasagaruni gulieru
He did not wait for it to cool.
Y él no esperó que se enfriara agarro una
Tìdagiñe, lun liñurahanou adulu lau lùhabu.
He put a spoonful in his mouth
cucharada y se lo llevo a la boca,
Keiti madilirun tan lubà làtunu, aba
but the atole was hot and it burned.
pero como el atol estaba caliente se quemo
Tachuraruni, siñati buga làsuerunu
He could not spit it out because his girlfriend
Y no pudo escupirlo porque su novia
Ladüga nuhabuga ladari luagu dàbula,
was there, and he could not swallow it because it would burn
estaba allí, ni tragarlo porque se quemaría
No lun lahunchunun lugudun
his throat like the sun.He could not stand the burning so
There are countless “Top Ten” lists of what to do in Belize, but we will focus on what we think are the Top Ten Toledo activities! So here is our Top Ten Things to Do in Punta Gorda and the Toledo district.
We’ve focussed on those activities which are in some way unique to Toledo. We will never have the tallest Maya temples, the highest waterfalls or the most glorious beaches, but we make up for this in so many other ways.
We’ve put those activities which we think Toledo excels at at the top, but of course everyone will have their own opinion.
If you want to explore further afield in Toledo, the small coastal Garifuna village of Barranco has a beautiful temple, a small cultural museum and other Garifuna cultural activities.
2. Explore the Maya, Kriol and East Indian cultures
There are a variety of Maya cultural activities in Toledo. In Big Falls village you have the Living Maya Experience and Chiac’s Craft Experience. In Indian Creek and other villages there are women’s cooperatives which also offer cooking, craft-making and other cultural experiences.
If you simply can’t get enough drumming, then you can also hop over to the Maroon Creole Drum School to learn about Belizean Kriol drumming, fire hearth cooking and crafts. You can learn more about the Creole culture at the Leela Vernon Creole Museum on Front Street, near the Cotton Tree Chocolate Factory.
Toledo also has a rich East Indian culture, which is being invigorated by the recent interest in turmeric, or “yellow ginger” as it is called here, as a health supplement. TIDE tours offer a full cultural tour which includes a stop in the East Indian village of Forest Home to learn the history of the East Indians in Belize.
3. Cacao and Chocolate Tours
Cacao trees, the source of the beans that are dried, roasted and then ground to make delicious chocolate, are mostly found right here in Toledo. The trees and pods themselves are beautiful, and of course the chocolate is delicious. Toledo cacao is very high quality, and is used by chocolatiers across the world.
Learn the back-story to how chocolate is made.Two of the most well-known cacao experiences in Toledo are Ixcacao Maya Belizean Chocolate, in San Felipe village, and Eladio Pop’s Agouti Cacao Farm, in San Pedro Columbia village.In town, you can also enjoy a free tour in the small but delightful Cotton Tree Chocolate Factory on Front Street near the gas station.
4. Explore Blue Creek Cave – Toledo’s “ATM”
ATM – “Achtun Tunichil Muknal” cave in Cayo is quite rightly one of Belize’s most popular tourist destinations, and it is undoubtedly unique. But here in Toledo, we have our very own cave in Blue Creek Maya village. A trip to Blue Creek “Hokeb Ha” cave offers beautiful jungle hikes, cooling river dips, and exciting cave explorations. There are waterfalls and ancient Maya pottery fragments deep inside the cave.
One word of caution – make sure you do this trip with a local Tour Operator who hires experienced guides….the river and cave can be dangerous to those who haven’t checked the weather and flooding forecasts and you want to be sure you are properly prepared, guided insured and more.
5. Fishing in pristine waters
Toledo enjoys some of the best fly-fishing opportunities in the world! Permit, Tarpon, Snook, Bonefish, Jacks, Barracuda and more. Toledo has a number of pristine and protected fishing areas, including the stunning Port Honduras Marine Reserve. There are a number of local tour operators and experienced guides offering fantastic fishing opportunities, including TIDE Tours Belize, PG Tours, Garbutt’s Marine, Kaimani Marine and more.
6. Birding Multi-Habitat Preserves
The Toledo district offers fantastic multi-habitat birding opportunities for birders of all abilities. If you are here in December you can join The Belize Audobon Society annual national Christmas Bird Count – Toledo almost always counts the most species!
7. Enjoying Toledo’s small but serene ancient Maya sites
Toledo’s Maya sites don’t offer the towering pyramics of Xunantunich and Caracol, but they do offer something unique.
Visit Lubaantun, the origin of the (fake?) Crystal Skull, hundred of (real) ancient Maya whistles and figuerines, and a true sense of serenity. This site, located near San Miguel and San Pedro Columbia villages, is serenely quiet – you will often be the only visitors! As an extra bonus, right next door is the Chaos Oasis – Toledo’s very own Earthship!
Nim Lim Punit is our most accessible Maya site, less than half a mile from the southern Highway in Indian Creek village. Check with your local accommodation or tour operator which days the cruise ship buses will be there….you will want to enjoy its stunning ancient Maya stelae and amazing views without being overcrowded with cruisers.
8. Snorkelling and Kayaking the Reef and River
Many local tour operators offer tours to local uninhabited, unspoilt cayes such as the Snake Cayes, for beach barbeque and snorkelling opportunities. You can also rent kayaks from TIDE Tours or Garbutt’s Marine and kayak the coast or the local rivers.
Even if you don’t want to go swimming in a cave, on a hot day many Belizeans head to one of the local rivers to cool off.
On the newly paved road from Punta Gorda to Jalacte, there are two family friendly waterfalls and swimming spots. San Antonio Falls, just passed San Antonio village, are a small set of falls with swimming spot and picnic tables. Ideal for families with small children, there are plenty of places to sit and shallow pools for paddling.
Slightly further inland, Rio Blanco National Park, between Santa Cruz and Santa Elena villages, has an approximately 20ft fall that the brave jump from into the beautiful blue pool below. The river above the fall has jungle hikes including one that goes over a rope, or hammock bridge. A beautiful spot for birding too!
10. Exploring by Bicycle or Bus
For those on a budget, as well as the cultural activities in and near to town, you can do some DIY exploring by bicycle and/or local bus. The bicycle ride to Boom Creek village, about 4 miles away past Hickatee Cottages is a safe and scenic route, with a decent amount of shade, to a very small Maya village.
If you are feeling adventurous, you can ask the locals to show you the path up Cerro hill, the twin hill about 1.5 miles outside Punta Gorda town.
Many of the activities listed above, including Nim Lim Punit, cultural activities in Big Falls village, and the waterfalls, are easily accessible by bus.
We are starting to compile a list of free, online Garifuna Language Resources. This will include song lyrics and more.
Garifuna Religious Texts
Throughout history, religious texts have often been the first texts to be translated into local languages. This is true even in Garifuna it seems, as we have found The Gospel of John from 1897 translated to Garifuna through an online library resource – you can download it below.
This trend continues to the modern day! If you are a Jehovah’s Witness, or simply interested in more documents in Garifuna, then the Jehovah’s Witness entire website has also been translated into Garifuna.
Likewise, the Christian new testament is available to download and also to listen to in the Garifuna language.
Garifuna Song Lyrics
The Smithsonian has recorded three dedicated Garifuna albums from the 1950s to the 1980s in Honduras and Belize. You can download the comprehensive liner notes including history of songs, some lyrics and more below:
Águyuha Nidúheñu is a traditional Hungu Hungu song in which the singer laments the passing of loved ones. But he is comforted by the fact that he will be going to meet his ancestors in his next life. The Garifuna “Nine- Night” or Beluria is a traditional spiritual ceremony in Garifuna culture that takes place nine nights after someone dies. One recent version of the song can be found on the well-known “Watina” album by Andy Palacio and the Garifuna Collective.
Águyuha Nidúheñu – My People Have Moved On
Traditional Hungu Hungu
Águyuha niduheñu (My people have moved on) Águyuha níbegu nuari (My relatives have moved on from me) Águyuha niduheñu nuari (My people have moved on from me) Águyuha níbegu nuari (My relatives have moved on from me)
Anirein Baba hadan aü, laransehaña nege nubara nei (God is with them preparing a place for me) Nuguya nei gabáradina yagura (As for me, I have a place over yonder)
Renunsiatina yebe luaria ladügüniwa duru (I tried to give up doing wrong) Renúnsiatina yebe ah luari (I tried to give it up) Renúnsiatina yebe ah luari (I tried to give it up) Renúnsiatina yebe luari. (I tried to give up) Buléiseitáru nanigi (She has hurt my heart) Nuguya nei labureme duru (I am the guilty one)
Bundiga or Matilda Foot is a traditional Garifuna food using the usual Garifuna staple ingredients of fish, coconut, and (green) banana. It is a very rich and filling dish.
There are quite a few recipes for Bundiga to be found online. Below is a typical Belizean recipe.
Ingredients for Bundiga or Matilda Foot (Serves 4 – 6)
1 – 1.5 pounds fresh fish
1-2 plugs garlic
1 teaspoon salt
5-6 cups coconut milk
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 medium onion (chopped)
2-3 basil leaves or 1/2 teaspoon basil powder
4-5 green banana (grated)
Directions:
Season cleaned fish with salt and black pepper (cover and put to one side)
Prepare coconut milk (from fresh grated coconut or powder)
Peel and grate bananas (cover and put to one side)
Heat coconut milk until just before boiling point then add garlic, onion & basil, then continue to stir until just before boiling point again
Add grated banana one pot spoon at a time
Simmer for about 7 minutes while stirring
Add fish and continue to simmer for 5-10 minutes or until fish is tender
Remove from heat and add additional salt and black pepper to taste
Sahou cassava drink is usually served as a thick, warm drink. Sometimes it is made with condensed milk or lots of sugar is added. It is often drunk on chilly mornings to help warm you up. As one of the staple Garifuna foods, cassava is used in many recipes.
Sahou Cassava Drink Recipe
Ingredients:
1 pound cassava or 1⁄4 cup cassava starch
1 grated coconut with 2 cups water OR 2 cups coconut milk (made from powder or from a can)
1⁄4 teaspoon cinnamon
1⁄4 teaspoon nutmeg 1 teaspoon vanilla
Sugar, honey or other sweetener to your liking
Directions:
Grate cassava and add about 2-3 cups of water to grated cassava and strain. Use the strained liquid to make the Sahou
Grate coconut and add about 2-3 cups of water and strain (if making your own coconut milk)
Add nutmeg, vanilla and cinnamon to a pot with the cassava liquid.
Cook over low heat, stirring constantly
Add coconut milk and continue to stir until it reaches your desired consistency.
Add sugar, honey or other sweetener to your liking.
Can be served hot or cold as a drink or as a porridge.
This is one of the late, great Paul Nabor’s most iconic songs and a very popular Garifuna song. It is an example of the paranda style of Garifuna music. Ronald Raymond McDonald of Warasa used to regularly play this song and others with Nabor and his father’s family group, Umalali, across Belize. One of the lines says “Lauba la banda habunana (They must have a band at my funeral)”. Umalali were of course there as Paul Nabor’s favorite group and good friends to play at his funeral after he passed away in October 2014.
Here are the Garifuna lyrics and English translation to this popular Paranda song:
Naguya Nei (I am Moving On)
Nati nuguya merumayatina (Brother, I am ill) Wanwa nuguya merumayatina (Dear Brother, I am ill) Balabada naru tura nigabana nay (I have tossed and turned in my bed) Lau nuragu le hadan hara familia (With this ailment in the presence of my family) Ayanuhayatina hama namulenu (x2) (I have spoken with my children) Dame le gia nowen wanwa (Dear Brother when I pass away) Lauba la banda habunana (They must have a band at my funeral) Hawagu namulenu naritagua (It is my little ones I’m worried about) Hawagu nisanigu naritagua (It is my children I’m worried about)
All Images Copyright Warasa Garifuna Drum School unless otherwise stated.Phone: +501 632 7701/ 628 2337.
Cacao trees, the source of the beans that are dried, roasted and then ground to make delicious chocolate, are mostly found right here in Toledo. The trees and pods themselves are beautiful, and of course the chocolate is delicious. Toledo cacao is very high quality, and is used by chocolatiers across the world.
ATM – “Achtun Tunichil Muknal” cave in Cayo is quite rightly one of Belize’s most popular tourist destinations, and it is undoubtedly unique. But here in Toledo, we have our very own cave in Blue Creek Maya village. A trip to 
The Toledo district offers fantastic multi-habitat birding opportunities for birders of all abilities. If you are here in December you can join 
Visit 
Many local tour operators offer tours to local uninhabited, unspoilt cayes such as the Snake Cayes, for beach barbeque and snorkelling opportunities. You can also rent kayaks from TIDE Tours or Garbutt’s Marine and kayak the coast or the local rivers.
On the newly paved road from Punta Gorda to Jalacte, there are two family friendly waterfalls and swimming spots. San Antonio Falls, just passed San Antonio village, are a small set of falls with swimming spot and picnic tables. Ideal for families with small children, there are plenty of places to sit and shallow pools for paddling.
